Where to stay in Taormina & the east

A Greek theatre with Etna behind it, above a coastline of small beaches. The polished end of eastern Sicily, and the base for the volcano, Catania and Siracusa.

Taormina is a town on a shelf high above the sea; the choice is shelf or shore. Up top is Corso Umberto, Porta Messina to Porta Catania, the ancient theatre above its eastern end, and the evening; the cable car on Via Pirandello drops to Mazzarò and Isola Bella. Below, Giardini Naxos is flat, longer on beach and cheaper; Letojanni, north of Mazzarò, smaller and quieter.

It suits couples and anyone wanting one address for the east; drivers and August less. Cars stop at the Lumbi or Porta Catania car parks, the lanes beyond are stairs, and at midday cruise coaches own the Corso and theatre. Etna is another climate: the Rifugio Sapienza cable car shuts in wind, cloud builds by noon, and the summit wants a coat in July.

Three nights, as the last stop. Catania is the airport and rail junction, with direct buses up, since the station is on the shore. Siracusa is a long day down the A18, better as two nights on Ortigia. Walk the Corso before eight and see the theatre in its last hour, after the coaches go.

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