Where to stay in Palermo

Sicily at full volume — Arab, Norman and Baroque layered in the same street, and street food that beats most restaurants. Rough around the edges, and the best market food in the country.

Palermo's old city is four quarters around the Quattro Canti, all walkable. The Kalsa, by the sea, is the most restored and the easiest base. Albergheria, round the Ballarò market, is the poorest and cheapest; the Capo, behind the cathedral, the quietest. The Vucciria is a few stalls by day, a street party by midnight. North of the Politeama, Via Libertà trades atmosphere for wide pavements, lifts and sleep.

It suits eaters and walkers; less well anyone after polish or a beach from the door: Mondello is a bus ride out under Monte Pellegrino. The centre is a camera-enforced ZTL of lanes barely a car wide; collect a hire car on the day you leave. Many rooms sit up palazzo stairs with no lift, and the markets are morning affairs.

Two or three nights is right. Monreale's mosaics are the 389 bus from Piazza Indipendenza, best before the coaches; Cefalù is about an hour east by regionale, station to beach on foot. Take Palermo first: the north-coast line runs on to Messina and a change for Taormina, or the A19 crosses to Catania; fly home from there.

1,790 places to stay in Palermo · Things to do in Palermo

What to see in Palermo

Stay somewhere else