Museum in Naples

A Bourbon palace on a hill above the city holding one of Italy's best painting collections — Caravaggio's Flagellation, Titian, Masaccio, Bruegel — in rooms that are frequently almost empty. The park around it is free and full of Neapolitan families at the weekend. Half a day including the climb up.

A small private chapel holding the Veiled Christ — a marble figure under a marble sheet, carved so convincingly that people have insisted for two centuries it must be a trick. Two more veiled sculptures beside it and a genuinely strange basement below. Tiny, timed, and it sells out: book before you reach Naples, not after.