Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie

ChurchMilanAbout 45 minutes

The Dominican convent whose refectory wall carries Leonardo's Last Supper. The painting is a separate, strictly timed visit — a quarter of an hour, a couple of dozen people, and slots that go weeks ahead, which is the single most common booking mistake on a Milan trip. The church itself is free and quiet.

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Le GrazieCafe Leonardo BistrotCafe Galli Pizza & MoreRestaurant Bar Il CenacoloCafe Natural BreakRestaurant Beef ClubRestaurant Dosso 18Cafe Puccia's BrothersCafe

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The rest of the guides, and the catalogue behind them.

Where to stay in ItalyTwenty-two areas, who each suits, and how many to fit in.Best time to visitMonth by month — heat, crowds, prices and what closes.Knowing the formCoffee, churches, tipping and the small courtesies.Trip ideasReady-made routes you can hand straight to the planner.

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